It tells us who did the work, what was done, how well it was done, and how long we can expect it to last, all vital factors in determining value. Restored Pianos: A receipt for the work performed is vital to determining the value. Original Purchase Price: If you know it, this will help determine its present value, giving you a starting point in the appraisal formula you will soon find at the end page of this information.
ESTEY ORGAN SERIAL NUMBERS PROFESSIONAL
This will also give the buyer/seller a professional contact to verify the condition and therefore the value of the piano. Service Records: Has the piano serviced on a regular basis? Tuning receipts are proof the piano has been well maintained. If you are selling your piano and have any of the following records, find them. Once you have gathered this information, do a search for your piano to find out what it may be worth. Read on from this point if you are not sure. Name, Age, Serial Number, Model, Size and Type. I GUARANTEE that the time you spend will give you valuable insight as to what your piano value may be, and help you decide whether or not the piano has enough value to warrant paying for an appraisal. YOU WILL NEED TO GATHER THIS INFORMATION in order to properly describe the piano to a potential buyer or professional Piano Appraiser whether the Piano has value or not. Quick Start: Click on the type of piano you are researching or continue reading below. The bellows are working on their original cloth, however, and while they are holding reasonably well, it will be among the first restoration tasks I’ll complete.This Virtual Piano Appraisal is designed for those of you who would like to know the approximate value of your piano. The two Forte stops were disconnected for some reason, and once I reconnected them, they lifted both the front and back mutes as they should. Many of the felts and leather pieces are in good enough condition that I won’t have to replace them. I was impressed by the overall condition, the muting system, and the quality of the build. I will create a new back out of a suitable wood for the organ, as the current back is a piece of plywood held in by five impossibly undersized screws. Unfortunately the organ does not have its original back. There was a number hand-written behind the front fallboard, along with initials, presumably of the person who built it. I discovered that the organ had absolutely no markings, serial numbers, or anything immediately apparent labeling on the back or the inside. Over the weekend I was finally able to open the back of the Lindholm and inspect what is inside. After removing the treadles, the cabinet is now empty. Kitchen hinges!Īll the screws were different. Someone created a kludgy “solution” to mounting the treadles. They had to use every bit of space on this organ! After removing the bellows from the organ, I remove the treadles. Instead of woven tape, they are made of wood:Īlso interesting is that the safety spill valve is mounted on the front of the reservoir and not on the back: The connectors to the treadles are really different. These are really tiny compared to what I’ve usually seen in an instrument, but that’s part of the fun of restoring a small instrument! After removing that, I move on to the bellows mechanism: the main reservoir and the exhausters.
This must be fixed or the foundation board replaced. Taking a look at the foundation board, I notice that there is a huge crack: Here’s another look at the cleaned up reed pan.
The repairs to the cracks are not perfect but hopefully it will be good enough. I’m hoping that it will improve the “soundboard” qualities of the reed pan. It is supposed to have greater elastic properties that allow the wood to move with the vibrations created by the reeds. We will see whether the violin varnish is an improvement over regular shellac. Actually, instead of shellac, I used a special type of violin varnish, whose primary component is shellac. Once the sanding was finished, I applied the first coat of shellac. I sanded the entire reed pan, reset all of the joints, glued and clamped around all sides.Īfter I made the repairs, the reed pan joints are now tight and square. The reed pan had also warped and was partially coming apart. All of the screws were heavily corroded and were cleaned up by using a rotating wire brush.
I patched the cracks, cutting a v-groove with a file and splicing in some new hardwood. It had a lot of moisture damage, with mold and dis-coloration everywhere, in addition to several cracks. The reed pan was in worse shape than I expected.
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